admin Face Oil First or Moisturizer? Top Dermatologists on How to Layer
Written by: Brianna Peters
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Published on: November 10, 2022
The short answer: It’s kind of up to you. Many dermatologists advise starting with the thinnest-consistency formula and layering thicker ones on top, but this isn’t always the best strategy. “If it’s a more water-based moisturizer, apply it before oil,” says Robert Anolik, MD, an NYC dermatologist and professor of dermatology at NYU Grossman School of Medicine. What to apply when also depends on your skin and how much moisture you’re looking for, explains NYC dermatologist Elyse Love, MD: “Face oils don’t really add hydration to the skin, but they can help support the skin barrier and lock in the hydration that you’d get from a serum or moisturizer.”
If you’re really dry, definitely layer both. “Often moisturizers are some type of emulsion,” says Anolik. So moisturizer can contain skin-barrier-supporting ingredients like linoleic acid or squalane (just as oils can) but also typically includes water-based hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. An oil over the top delivers more nourishment and seals in moisture at the same time.
Cream
goop Beauty
GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream
goop, $98/$86 with subscription
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Oil
goop Beauty
GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil
goop, $98/$89 with subscription
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What about lotions and serums? “Lotions and serums have more water and less oil than creams, so they feel lighter on skin and absorb more easily,” says Anolik. “Creams tend to contain less water and more oil.” So if you plan to layer a serum with a cream, start with serum.
Serum
Tata Harper
Superkind Bio-Barrier Serum
goop, $146
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Cream
Pangea
Ultra Rich Nourishing Moisturizer
goop, $54
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Lotion
Plantkos
Phyto A Face Lotion
goop, $67
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“Face oils feel thin consistency-wise,” says Anolik. “But they should still be applied after water-based products like lotions.” Love agrees: “Face oils are occlusive, helping lock in the good stuff (hydration) and lock out the bad (irritants and pollutants), all of which helps support the skin barrier.” While face oils can penetrate many moisturizers, serums, and creams, few of those treatments can penetrate an oil, so keep that in mind as you layer. And note that while thicker emulsions like creams can often be too much for oily skin, oils—even rich ones—are different. In fact, certain oils, like rose hip and jojoba, can help combat excess oil in acne-prone skin.
Rose Hip Oil
Balmyard Beauty
Moonlight Lover Facial Oil
goop, $95
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Jojoba Oil
Tata Harper
Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil
goop, $165
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Plum Oil
Le Prunier
Plum Beauty Oil
goop, $72
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Favorite Face Oil and Moisturizer Combinations by Skin Type
Skin Type: Dry
If you regularly battle dryness, layering a rich, thick cream moisturizer under a face oil can make a noticeable difference.
Balm
Monastery Made
Attar Floral Concentrate Balm
goop, $168
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Supercharged Oil for Moisture and Treatment
FāTH
The Mage Oil
goop, $160
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Thickest Cream
Surya
Balancing Collagen Cream
goop, $195
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Skin Type: Oily or Acne-Prone
“Most people with acne-prone skin do better with relatively lighter creams or lotions,” says Anolik. Again, the right oil, even on its own, can help, too.
Featherweight Moisturizer
goop Beauty
GOOPGLOW Glow Lotion
goop, $58/$52 with subscription
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Hyaluronic Acid
Dr. Barbara Sturm
Hyaluronic Serum
goop, $320
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Soothing Treatment Oil
Vintner’s Daughter
Active Botanical Serum
goop, $195
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Skin Type: Sensitive
Those with sensitive or reactive skin benefit from calming extracts and formulas free of fragrance and other common irritants. Oils like primrose and green tea can soothe sensitive skin types.
Made without More than 85 Common Skin Allergens and Irritants
Tata Harper
Fortifying Moisturizer
goop, $130
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Skin-Coddling Cream Made with Evening Primrose
Augustinus Bader
The Ultimate Soothing Cream
goop, $280
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Made with Green Tea Oil
True Botanicals
Renew Pure Radiance Oil
goop, $110
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The 4 p.m. Makeup Refresh Trick
Pat on face oil over your makeup to give your skin an instant pick-me-up (smooth a few drops between your palms, then pat onto your skin lightly, avoiding eye shadow and mascara). This trick is especially great in the late-afternoon-doldrums time, when you’re thinking you might need a little extra makeup—a little oil is actually all you need.
Furtuna Skin
Due Alberi Biphase Moisturizing Oil
goop, $225
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An Easy Guide to Skin-Care Order
LAYER 1: Exfoliate for fresh, clean skin.
Daily
goop Beauty
GOOPGLOW Cloudberry Exfoliating Jelly Cleanser
goop, $35/$25 with subscription
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Twice a Week
Humanrace
Lotus Enzyme Exfoliator
goop, $46
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Once a Week
goop Beauty
GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel
goop, $125/$112 with subscription
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LAYER 2: Tone to retexturize, brighten, and smooth.
goop Beauty
GOOPGLOW Flower Acids Resurfacing Toner
goop, $45/$40 with subscription
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LAYER 3: Flood skin with actives.
Alpyn Beauty
Bearberry & Vitamin C Glow Serum
goop, $59
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LAYER 4 (if needed): Moisturize (and add more actives).
goop Beauty
GOOPGENES All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream
goop, $98/$86 with subscription
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LAYER 5 (if needed): Pat on oil for more moisture and actives.
goop Beauty
GOOPGENES All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil
goop, $98/$89 with subscription
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LAYER 6: Mineral sunscreen for clean sun protection.
Grown Alchemist
Natural Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30
goop, $39
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How do we test clean beauty products at goop? First they have to pass our standards for clean (goop has some of the toughest standards in the industry). Only then do they make it to our editors’ showers, bathroom counters, and makeup bags, where they are rigorously hand tested (and road tested, if we happen to be going on a trip). The goop beauty department is made up of women of varied ages, races, and tastes—if we really love something, we’re pretty confident you’re going to love it, too.
